July 25, 2008

Epiphany in the Desert

By Eric Rorer

Contributing Writer

Epiphany_in_the_Desert

An ascent of Death Valley's Tin Mountain offers a new perspective on the largest national park in the continental United States.

Of America's national parks, perhaps the most misunderstood is Death Valley. Two fundamental misconceptions about the park form the basis of this misunderstanding. First, most people think the park is flat. Second, people think the park is located in some distant land, far, far away from any major city. In fact, the park is just four hours from either Las Vegas or Los Angeles, and it's 3.4 million acres constitute not only the largest national park in the 48 contiguous states, but also one of the most geographically varied, with elevations ranging from -282 feet to 11,049 feet.

Fossils, Petroglyphs and Challenging Scrambles
A wonderful example of this diverse topography is Tin Mountain. At 8,900 feet, it is not the highest peak in the park, but it is arguably the most spectacular, especially when approached by Big Horn Gorge. Wonderfully remote and filled with exquisite narrows carved by ancient waters, the gorge offers a comprehensive cross section of Death Valley topography. Starting at 1,500-feet in the bottom of Death Valley Wash, the ascent up the canyon includes spectacular displays of embedded fossils and petroglyphs, and several challenging rock scrambles, including one dicey bypass of an 80-foot dryfall.

Ascending the mountain via this route is a very strenuous three-day journey, and a challenging 4-day journey. There are no trails in this area, so it's necessary to study the map carefully and pick your route. It's also important to understand that there is no water along the route, so all water must be carried. Allotting one gallon per person per day means each hiker must carry between three or four gallons. That's roughly 25 to 30 pounds of water. That weight combined with food, sleeping bag, clothes and other gear can make for a very heavy pack.

Alone at the Top
At about 5,000-feet, the gorge opens onto a dramatic plateau that sees only a handful of visitors each year. This is an excellent spot for setting up a base camp. Round trip to the summit of Tin Mountain from this plateau is about 12 miles with nearly 4,000 feet of elevation gain. That's a substantial hike, so it's important to get an early start.

Probably the easiest access is to approach the summit from the south, making your way up a gradual bench that extends all the way to the base of the summit. Along the way, other-worldly Joshua tree forests lead to absolutely pristine stands of pinion and juniper, and as you ascend ever higher, the views get more and more spectacular. The summit boasts some of the most dramatic vistas in California – Death Valley proper to the southeast, the Inyo mountains to the west, Grapevine Mountains to the east and the White Mountains to the north. On clear days, it's possible to see as far as 100 miles in all directions. You're virtually guaranteed to have the summit all to yourself, and as you gaze out at all that wildly rugged terrain, you will understand once and for all how beautifully misunderstood this jewel of a park truly is.

Getting There:
The nearest major airports to Death Valley National Park are Las Vegas and Los Angeles. The park is approximately four hours from either city. Once you're in the park, take Highway 267 roughly 40 miles north of Stovepipe Wells, pull to the side and park on the shoulder. The entrance to Bighorn Gorge is due west across Death Valley Wash. For further detail consult the United States Geological Survey map "Tin Mountain."

Lodging:
Obviously, all lodging during the trek to the top of Tin Mountain is camping. No need to look for designated sites as there are none. Backcountry permits are recommended but not required. For further information, call: (760) 786-2331.

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